11/03/06

Rapport du major Elliot sur les Postes dans le Portage du Témiscouata.

Source: Document des Archives Nationales du Canada RG8, Série "C", volume ?.  Recherche: Benoît Long; Retranscription: Carmen Long.  Copie photographique: Ghislain Long; Image: Benoît Long.

Nous désirons remercier Carmen Long pour un travail exemplaire de retranscriptions des images du texte original.  Un vrai travail de moine!

Texte de Benoît Long

Nous reproduisons le rapport au complet du major Elliott puisque celui-ci renferme des détails importants sur la vie de Philip Long et sa famille, et représente à notre avis la meilleure description de l'importance stratégique du Portage du Canada.

Ce portage fût lien de communication important dans le développement de la région.

Le Rapport passe peu de temps à la description de la ferme de Long mais c'est un bout très intéressant pour les mordus de la petite histoire.

Bonne lecture!

Report by Major G. E. Elliot on the Stations along the Portage of Temiscouata.

Source: National Archives of Canada, RG8, Series "C", volume ?.  Research: Benoît Long.  Transcription: Carmen Long.  Photographic Copy: Ghislain Long;  Imaging: Benoît Long.      

We wish to thank Carmen Long for her exemplary work on transcribing the original text from the photocopies.  A truly significant effort!

Text by Benoît Long

We have reproduced the entire report from Elliot because we feel it is of historical value to descendants of Philip.  It helps understand the organization of the Portage whie Long was a key figure in its operations.  Perhaps more importantly, it continues to provide insights into the daily lives of the people who made the network of stations work as they carried parcels, mail and people through this crucial communications line.

The Report does not spend an inordinate amount of time on describing Long's farm but it is a key section of the report.  We encourage everyone to read the report and enjoy the descriptions of the logistical challenges of running an open communication line on a daily basis in that period of time in our nation's history.

Retranscription par Carmen Long  

Present state of the Portage of Temisquata and method proposed for its improvement

Quebec 10th August 1823.

After attentive examination of the Country on the right and left of the Portage Road for eight days, and having during that period traversed a space of from 50 to 60 miles through the woods;  I am of opinion from the great extent of swampy ground and high mountains pafsed over during that period that it would be much better to continue the present line of the Road than to give it a new direction.

I must however at the same time beg to add that when the leaves are off the trees it may be possible to avoid many of the bad parts;  which I was in all probability prevented from doing from the circumstance of my not being able to see more than a few yards in any direction.

The Madawaska Storekeepers

Afsuming it therefore as a point decided on that it would be better to continue the present Road, I shall proceed to make some remarks on its present state, with such suggestions as I should think might lead to its improvement. But in the first place I consider it not unimportant to state that although the Portage is at present in so wretched a state that a person who has not been there can scarcely form any idea of it.  Yet the merchants (or storekeepers) of Madawaska do now get their supplies over it, in preference to going down the St. John River to Frederickton; to which place they cannot go & return in less than 9 days, whereas in the same time, or a little less, they can travel to Quebec & back again, with the advantage of getting their goods at a much lower rate.

Population of Madawaska

The Madawaska settlement at present consists, according to Mr. Ringuette, the curé, of 140 families which taken at the common average of from 5 to 6 persons each, will give a Population of nearly 800 souls this estimate I do not consider to be overstated, having taken the opportunity of my being there on a Sunday,to go to the church which I found though of a considerable size litterally as full as it could hold.

Method of transport across the Portage

From Cotés house on the bank of the St. Lawrence to the River Verte 9 ¾  miles the Road is practicable for carts carrying about 4 weights; but from their to Longs, 27 miles the only mode of conveyance is on a (?), or species of  sledge; formed by two shafts united by three crofs beams, with four uprigths to fasten the load on and one end of each shaft  is suspended to the harness of an (?) or horse , and the other trails along the ground; on this machine which is generally taken the whole way acrofs the Portage a load of from 2 to 2­½ cut weight is carried in two days, and another to return, for the sum of  4 to 5 dollars; there is no difficulty in getting habitants to undertake the job, but they try their utmost to impose on strangers & asked me 8 to 10 dollars each, although I only paid 5; and detained them on the road.

From the Riv. St. Lawrence to the Riv Verte – 9 ¾ 

From the River St. Lawrence to the River Verte, 9 ¾ miles by the Road, but not more than three French League in a direct line, belongs to the Seigniory of the River du Loup & every lot on that space except two or three being conceeded; the Censitaires are obliged by law, to open & keep in repair the Road along the front of their respective lots; & as this space is already practicable for carts carrying from 4 to 5 hundred weight it appears less necessary to expend money on it than on the remaining 27 miles of the Portage.

It is however proper to observe that from the end of Nouvelle Ecosse, to the commencement of the settlement at River Verte (5 miles), the Road has never been opened more than a few feet wide; & that at the present moment the branches overlap one another on the greatest part of this space, which indeed is the case on almost the whole of the Portage, except at the clearings,  circumstance in itself sufficient to prevent its being a good Road.

From the Riv Verte to Les Roches – 3 ½ miles

Detached rock not much timber

From the River Verte to a little beyond the end of the 13th mile (3 ½ miles) the Road is very much covered with detached pieces of rock, some of large dimensions requiring either to be removed or broken up, neither of which would be difficult; & this space as well as from the 14th to 16th mile has very little timber upon it, & even what there is, is generally small pines or cedars which on this part of the Road must be cut down so as to open it to a different width (say 30 feet) at a trifting expense.

Logged swamps

In many places the crossways are made with sapins & cedars mixed, & I remarked that almost without exception when the former were completely  rotten & broken in pieces, the cedars were almost as perfect as the day they were put down.

It is necessary to state that there are a great many portions of the logged parts of the whole of the Portage which are so completely out of repair, that it is quite astonishing a horse can drag a load through them; for although many of them have had new logs only three or four years ago, yet having been made of sapins (with cedard standing close by) & frequently of small dimensions, they could not be expected to last long.  The consequence is there are chasms  in many places of from 5 to 10 feet wide with scarcely a single log on them & in others great numbers of logs are lying about, quite loose, and it is astonishing to see with what sagacity and care the unfortunate animals continue from repeated practice to scramble over them; it is however a circumstance which I beleive rerely occurs that any load pafses over the Portage without the horse sinking repeatedly so deep into the mud even in the very driest season, as to render it necessary to unharness him for the purpose of enabling him to scramble out of it, which is generally done with the assistance of the Driver who then unloads the vehicle, & puts all together again in the best way he can.

Savane des Roches

Method proposed for the improvement

With respect to the Savane des Roches which is logged from 900 to 1000 yards should it be aimed advisable only to put it into a state of repair for the present mode of conveyance. The remedy to be applied is clearing out the ditches and replacing the worn out logs with cedars, but as Roads thus constructed are but bad at the best; the only effectual mode of making it good, is to take up the logs & sleepers and replace them with cedars laid flat on the ground, putting a second layer where necessary & covering these up with the mud taken from the Ditches, then putting on a cast of gravel of which there is an abundance of very good on almost the whole of the Portage; taking care at the same time to make wide and deep Ditches with Drains, & an outlet sufficient to carry the water off if possible.  These Drains & Ditches should also be constanly examined to see that they are free from obstructions & not left as they have been until there are less trees growing out of the middle of them;  by this method and a little looking after I have no doubt, that there are very few of any of the very swampy parts of the Portage which may not be made sound & good;  it would however be necessary on a few yards to put more gravel on it.  This method it must be admitted would be attended with a considerable expense but when the importance of a good line of communication between the Provinces is taken into consideration, I cannot help thinking it would be much more advantageous than to make any temporary repairs by the plan at present adapted.

Les Roches – 2 miles

From near the 14th to near the 16th mile on a space of about 2 miles, is almost one continued bed of solid rock extending such a distance to the right and left, as to preclude a pofsibility of this being avoided; there does not appear any other method for improving this portion of the Road so as to make it practicable for wheel carriages but that of widening the present track by filling up the interstices or inequalities of the surface with pieces of rock of which there is an abundance lying about in every directions, & then put in a layer of stone broken to about the size  of an egg covering this again with gravel wherever it can conveniently be procured.

From Les Roches to the Riv St. Francis – ¾ of a mile

From near the 16th mile to the River St. Francis the side of the mountain is in several places very steep and covered with Rock, much of which should be moved off the Road or be broken on it.

Ledges of rock

From the River St, Francis to the Lake there are 8 or 10 ledges of Rock running across the Road which require blasting;  these ledges are in general from 15 to 20 feet in length with an elevation of from about 30 to 45 degrees which would make it difficult to get carts with loads over them;  one of the pensioners at the River Verte being a miner & also out of employment, it would only be necessary to provide him with Tools.

Loose rocks

It might also be necessary to blast some of the largest of the detached Rocks at present on the Road.

Swamps

From the River St. Francis to the Lake Temisquata the Swampy parts are so numerous that it would be endless to attempt to particularize them.  I must therefore beg to refer to my Plan for their position and extent merely observing that the same method  is recommended with respect to them as is pointed out for the Savane des Roches.

Bridges

The Bridges over the different streams crofsing the Road being of a sufficient breadth & in very good repair, with the exception of a few rails and crofs Planks or Logs, a very trifting sum would be required on that account.

Mountains

The principal mountains are the one at the commencement of the Portage, the New Caledonian Hill, that on the Eastern bank of the River Verte, both sides of the St. Francis the Grand Fourche & Mountains Buard the whole of which require to have their steepest parts scarped so as to make it easy for loaded Carts to ascend them.

Road has never been opened more than from 12 to 15 feet

Having measured the distance in a number of places between trees standing directly opposite one another of approximately from 20 to 30 yards growth; it appears evidently, that this Road has not during that period been opened wider than from 12 to 15 feet, and as its general direction is nearly E S E the rays of the sun can never assist in drying it except for a short time in the morning, when they have the least power; the consequence of which is, that places which would be dried by a few hours exposure to the sun and wind are never free from moisture.

Bush opened to an average breadth of at least 30 feet

60 feet required to guard against windfalls

I should therefore beg to recommend as a preliminary step to any other improvements that the Bush along the whole of the Portage should be cut down to an average width of at least 30 feet, & every effort made to drain the water off.  And as a very considerable portion of the Road lies over a tract of Gravel and Rock which would not require to be more than from 15 to ? feet wide an additional breadth may be given to such of the swampy parts as cannot be drained, so as to allow the sun to act with all its power in afsisting to help them dry.  It must however be admitted that the breadth proposed would not garantee the Road from the effects of windfalls which cannot be guarded against except by giving the whole Road a breadth of at least 60 feet.

Expense for 30 miles L 368

7 ¾  miles not requiring to be opened

The expense of opening 30 miles to 30 feet wide allowing 7 feet for the breadth of the old Road, at 12 Dollars an acre & three of them to a mile would not amount to more than L 368.  I have put the extent to be opened at 30 miles, having deducted from the whole distance 5 miles for clearings & the remaining 2 ¾  miles for parts where the wood has been burnt.

Difficult to form an estimate of the probable expense of the whole

Suppose L 4,000 would cover every expense

The work proposed to be performed on the Road being of a nature totally different from any I have ever been employed on, I am unwilling to hazard an opinion as to the probable amount requisite to carry it into effect;  but I should imagine it would require nearly a hundred Pounds a mile on an average, or about L 4,000, which sum it is to be hoped would cover every expense & make the Road a very good one.

From Longs to the Degele – 15  miles

From Longs to the Degele, 15 miles there is only one stream of any consequence to be pafsed, which is called the Cabanot, distant one League;  this stream is from 20 to 30 feet wide with firm banks & at this season is not a great depth, but in the spring & fall is said to be much increased by the waters from the mountains. At present this stream is passed over by means of a Tree which lies acrofs it; about ¾ of a mile up this stream Long has a clearing of a few Acres.

A Road requires opening along the top of the mountain

From Longs to Degele, a Road might be easily opened; principally along the top of the flat nountains which surround the Lake, pafsing in the rear and in sight of Dalls House; were this portion opened, the whole line would be practicable for foot Pafsenger to the Little Falls of the Madawaska,  a New Road having been made, from 12 to 14 feet wide, commencing at the Degele & pafsing along the right  bank of the Madawaska, terminates at the junction of that River with the St. John’s;  a distance of about 30 miles.

Madawaska settlement

From the commencement of the Madawaska settlement to the Church is no Road with the exception of such detached portions as are left between Neighbours for their mutual conveniance, although the Land is cleared on both sides of the St. John’s River with exception of the Indian Reserve.

G. A. Eliot

B  Major, 68th Reg.

Retranscription par Carmen Long