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Travels in North America Particularly in the
Provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, and New Brunswick, and in the
states of Maine, Massachusetts, and New York: containing a variety of
interesting adventures and disasters, which the author encountered in
his journey among the Americans, Dutch, French and Indians. Also
several remarkable interpositions of divine providence, in preserving
him from dangers, by sea and land, from 1816 to 1823.
Author: John Mann, Glasgow
Printed by Andrew Young, 150, Trongate (1824)
Excerpts
Introduction
« Mann and the
passengers on the Favourite did not face any of the problems just
described, but he does describe his encounters with people who did, such
as the two Irishmen whom he met walking from Quebec to New Brunswick,
accompanied by their wives and two tiny children, with no ideas of the
distance they had to travel or of the difficulties they would have to
face. In this period the colonial governments occasionally gave small
grants to settlers located in remote places on main routes of travel
like Lake Temiscouata and Grand Falls on the upper reaches of the St.
John river. These grants were to provide some form of shelter and food
for travellers, many of whom could not afford to pay for such help. One
such settler was John Long at lake Temiscouata and another was Charles
Stewart at Grand Falls, who between August 1822 and March 1823, aided
over sixty people. Mann describes his visits to the homes of some
of these hardy pioneers, including a visit to the home of John Long,
although he does not mention Long by name.” (citation from introduction
page VI and written by W. A. Spray, St. Thomas University, Fredericton,
N.-B. 1978, reprinted by Saint Anne's Point Press, P.O. Box. 691,
Fredericton, N.B. – original edition by A. Young, Glasgow,
Scotland en 1824.)
Other sections of the book
pp. 34-37
« Getting up early, I set off, having to travel thirty miles before I
would meet a single house. The road was exceedingly disagreeable,
sometimes through soft swamps, and sometimes over hills, rocks, and
mountains, which made traveling very fatiguing. I observed by the road
side vestiges of fire not wholly extinguished, and I concluded that the
Indians took up their abode by it all night, and could not be very far
before me. I traveled with a quick pace, being anxious to overtake them,
as I was informed that there was no possibility in getting a passage,
when I came to the lake, excepting in some of their canoes. In the
afternoon I discovered marks of another fire, where I supposed they had
cooked dinner; but I thought certainly that they could not be those whom
I had seen, otherwise I must have overtaken them before now, as their
canoe was of a considerable bulk and weight. In a little I met with
three Irishmen, carrying their baggage, who had left the city of St.
John’s, and bound for upper Canada. They told me of the distance the
Indi9ans were before me, but I understood they were not the same party
to whom I had been speaking for a passage the day before. After having
ended my conversation with the Irishmen, I pushed on to overtake the
Indians, in order, if possible, to procure a passage in their canoe.
About four in the afternoon, I overtook them, consisting only of a young
couple and a boy of sixteen years of age. Their baggage consisted of a
small canoe, a small hatchet, a tin kettle, and a few herrings. I was
desirous to have a conversation with them, chiefly for my own interest,
but they seemed very distant and indifferent. Being unacquainted with
their manner of carrying the canoe, and yet anxious to do them any
service in my power, I carried the tomahawk. The two men alternately
carried the canoe; having a cross belt on the crown of their head, on
which the canoe was supported; one of the cross pieces resting on a
piece of board which hung down their back. The canoe was bottom upwards,
with the one end stretching forward over their heads, and the other
sometimes touching the ground. When they got it in order on their back
they could travel pretty quick, but changing so often caused a delay,
and obstructed our progress. The day being now far spent, I was doubtful
if I could make out the lake that night. I marched on and left them. But
after I traveled some distance, I reflected that it would not answer to
take the hatchet with me if the Indians were to camp on the way that
height, for they could not conveniently want it. Being at a loss what to
do, whether to return with the hatchet or to proceed on my march, I
rested myself to deliberate on the step I should take, thinking perhaps
they would make their appearance before I removed. I knew they had but
little or no provisions to themselves, and to deprive them of the
hatchet, which they could not well want, was what I was reluctant to do.
While I was sitting, I fortunately saw some pheasants close by: aiming
at one of them with a stone, I killed it. As the Indians had fire-works,
I thought I could get it roasted for supper, and that it was
providentially brought in my way. But after staying here a long time,
and no appearance of the party coming, I got very uneasy, and was at a
loss what to do. At last I thought, in case how I might be used by the
Indians, that I had better proceed. The night being warm and dry, and
having the pheasant, I saw I could not be ill off, on the supposition I
had to pass the night in a bush, even if I had to eat my venison raw.
Being yet day-light, I marched on, and in a little while I ascended a
height from which I could discern the lake, through at a distance. My
joy was more easily conceived than expressed. I walked with expedition
and vigour, thinking to reach it before night. Having descended the
hill, my march was through a low and level tract, which made it appear
to be nearer night than it was. After traveling some miles through this
low place, I again became discouraged, supposing I had only seen the
blue sky instead of the lake; but the next height happily removed my
doubts. In a little I came to a small house on the border of the lake.
When I was just done with supper, the Indians arrived with their canoe.
They pretended to be making preparations for embarking that same night.
Seeing this, I enquired of my landlord if there was any possibility of
getting a passage any other way than with them. He told me there was
very little chance, without paying more that I could afford. So I
applied immediately to them in order to procure a passage to the next
Setlement, which was forty-five miles distant. I asked them what they
would take for conveying me that distance; but they would not come to
any agreement unless I paid then so much per advance. They told me they
intended to encamp by the like side all night, and they had nothing to
eat, excepting a few herrings which they brought from the St. Lawrence;
and these were a little injured in consequence of being carried in a
bundle on the back of the squaw; the heat rendering their taste
disagreeable. Here I was put to a stand what to do, suspecting if I was
to pay them beforehand they might set off early in the morning and leave
me behind. I told them I was afraid of this. They promised faithfully
not to deceive me. Being however doubtful of them, I gave them only a
quarter of a dollar to buy some flour for supper. I then returned to the
house and fetched the pheasant which I had killed; but when I came back,
I could neither see Indians, canoe, or any thing else. Apprehensive of
being disappointed in my expectations, I cried out. They made answer,
having retired a little from the place where I left them to a more
convenient station. I presented the pheasant to them, for which they
were very thankful, and then returned to my lodgings. The landlord was
an American, and could speak English with propriety. The landlady was a
French woman from Lower Canada, and consequently all the family spoke
the French language. After having some conversation with the old
gentleman I retired to bed. I got up early next morning. Indeed I slept
very little all night, fearing I might be deceived by the treacherous
Indians. I dressed myself with all expedition, being determined to put
off no time till I knew whether they had gone or not. When I cam to the
place I found the sunap and the squaw on one side of the fire, with a
rage of a blanket under them, and another above them. The boy was
opposite on the other side of the fire, rolled in an old tattered
blanket. The three were fast asleep. The canoe was turned bottom
upwards, and the few articles that formed their baggage secured under
it. I awakened them, and enquired when they intended to set off. They
said immediately after breakfast. The squaw began to cook. The sunap
fixed two small stakes in the ground, with another across, on which the
kettle was hung. The squaw had a quantity of flour, of which she made
porridge, cutting the unsavoury herrings, and mixing them with the
porridge. While she was employed cooking, other considerations occupied
my attention. I thought if I would return to breakfast, the might set
off before I could return. To fast till we got to the next Settlement
would be dangerous, and to partake with the Indians I felt no
inclination; on the supposition I would be made welcome. I remained
until I saw the porridge ready. It was poured into a platter made of
bark. Each of them had an Indian spoon, also made of bark. They offered
me one, and requested me to partake with them. Considering the distance
before me, and at the same time fearing I should disoblige them by
refusing, rather than from immediate want, I complied. We all four sat
round the platter, thankful that we were not worse. The diet was a
rarity to me, and I believe would be so to any European. After
breakfast, one of them made a paddle for me to help them. All things
being prepared we set off. One of the Indians was in the bow of the
canoe, and the other in the stern. I sat next to the latter, paddling
away, and the squaw sat next to the former, smoking her pipe. My
companion in the stern soon broke his paddle, which relieved me very
agreeably from my labour, and afterwards I was only a spectator of what
was going on.”
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